The Pipe and Glass - Yorkshire July 28 2015
The very definition of culinary excellence is not so much winning a Michelin star, but in retaining it year on year. James and Kate Mackenzie, proprietors of the Pipe and Glass near Beverley, experienced the euphoria of first gaining a star back in 2010. They have retained it every year since then, a fact that is reflected in glowing reviews from some serious food writers and the awards they have earned – National Dining Pub of the Year and sixth place in the Good Food Guide’s Top 50 pubs - to name just two.
This 15th century Inn stands on the site of the original gatehouse to Dalton Park, the residence of Lord Hotham. It is a traditional English pub with all the rustic trappings of a cosy inn – timber beams, log fires and hand-pulled real ales. The pair first spotted its potential in 2006 and they had just two weeks to refurbish the restaurant before firing up the kitchens.
In the five years since receiving a star for the first time, they have not rested on their laurels. Sage and Thyme, the two original bedrooms, have recently been joined by three more – Rosemary, Lovage and Mint. All five rooms represent the height of luxury with, variously, super king-size sleigh beds, Bose iPod docking stations, plasma TVs, underfloor heating and private patios with views over nearby Dalton Park. New, too, is a private dining room for 6 or 10 people, where James conducts cookery demonstrations and serves tasting menus. He has even found time to produce his own cookery book, “On the Menu”, published in 2011.
Supplying the coffee from day one is Café du Monde. For bar, restaurant and bedrooms, the Pipe and Glass uses a free loan cafetière system with Continental and Decaffeinated portion pack coffees for consistency of strength and to preserve the freshness.
Kate explains why she and James use Café du Monde coffee to the exclusion of all others:
“We pride ourselves on our good relationships with key suppliers. Over 10 years here, they have shown a level of quality and consistency which we ourselves strive for. Our customers would never let us change even if we wanted to – which of course we don’t!”